Where’s My Problem?

There are two places where your sprinkler system can break: the sprinkler head or along the main line. Breaking sprinkler heads is a very common thing and can be fixed easily. You can break a head by accidentally running over the grass in your car or with a lawnmower. If you have a break along the main long, it is certainly a more expensive and involved process. A break can occur during aeration, or from a frozen pipe, or a faulty installation. Once you have determined where your problem is, you can follow this guide accordingly.

Main Line

• Determine where the line is broken. There’s usually no problem in finding this part; there’s usually a fountain of water spewing from the area.
• Shut off the main water source!
• Dig around the area so that there will be room for you to maneuver your arms around the pipe.
• Carefully cut the broken area of the pipe. Make sure that your cuts are straight and even!
• Clean and dry off the area because you will be applying an adhesive.
• You will need to purchase glue specific for piping. You should get the kind that has primer and glue so that you won’t need to buy them separately.
• You will also need to purchase an expansion repair coupling. Some people choose to buy just regular PVC piping, but the coupling enables you to expand the piping to better fit your sprinkler line, and you’ll only need to cut out a smaller part.
• Apply the glue to the cut ends of the pipe, in addition to inside of the coupling where it will be joining the pipe.
• Quickly put all the parts together and hold them together to ensure that they fuse properly. Allow the glue to dry for about 15 minutes.
• Turn the water back on to make sure that there are no more leaks.
• If there are no leaks, congratulations! Celebrate by filling in the hole that you dug.

Sprinkler Head

• Dig a hole around the sprinkler head so you’ll have room to work with it.
• Unscrew the sprinkler head, but make sure that you don’t take the riser along with it.
• Clean the area of any dirt.
• Set the old head aside and screw in the new one on the riser.
• Turn on your sprinkler system, and your problem should be fixed.
• Fill in the hole that you created.

Sprinkler Riser

• Dig a hole around the sprinkler to give yourself some room.
• Take off the head.
• Since the riser is broken, you’ll most likely need pliers in order to remove the whole thing.
• Make sure the sprinkler is clear of any dirt.
• Install the new riser.
• Turn on your system, and it should work properly.
• Fill in the hole.

Repairing your sprinkler does take a bit of time and effort, but if you do it correctly, then it should be fairly simple. The most important thing that you can do is to make sure that everything is clean before you replace any part. Having the slightest bit of dirt could cause damage to your system. If your system is still not working after you’ve followed the instructions, then you’ll need to call in a professional because there could be something else wrong with your system. In fact, you can call a professional if you feel intimidated by any aspect of repairing it on your own.

If you need assistance with your sprinkler system, call us at (407) 268-6222.

Clear Your Lawn of Debris

During the fall months, trees shed and become bare for the winter time, and they always leave their leaves on your lawn. With a blanket of leaves covering your lawn, it has no room to breathe or let in light, causing your lawn to suffocate. It’s okay to have a few stray sprinklings of mulch or grass clippings because they can return nitrogen back into your soil. Also, be sure to clear your lawn of anything that could cause bare patches, such as toys or lawn equipment.

Aerate

With the excessive use of your lawn during the warm months, the soil underneath can become compacted and cause various problems. Aerating involves punching 3-4 inch holes in your lawn to allow moisture, air and nutrients in the soil. In order to make the aerating process easier, you should water your lawn a day or two before your plan to aerate so that it is moist and therefore easier to work with. It’s best to go to your local hardware store to rent aerating equipment.

Mow

During the end of fall when you mow your lawn for the last few times, adjust your mower settings so that they are lower than what you normally use. New growth is more susceptible to disease, so lowering your mower settings will prevent new growth. Be sure to lower the settings gradually so you don’t damage the turf. Make sure you bag all of the clippings!  Weeds may be hiding in them, and if you leave the clippings to sit on your lawn then they could take over  your grass during the wintertime.

Fertilize

At the end of fall, make sure that you fertilize your lawn. Instead of using all of the nutrients right away, your lawn will store the fertilizer in its soil and roots while it is dormant and then take full advantage of the nutrients when the winter is over. By using a fertilizer that has time-sustained capabilities, your lawn will absorb the minerals gradually even while it is latent.

Seed and Water

This tip is more-so for lawns that have bald patches before winter even hits. When you seed the bare spots, the cool weather will allow for the seeds to germinate without weeds completely taking over. You should do this early enough so that the empty spots will fill in before the first freeze. Also, it’s important to give your lawn a good dose of water. This will stimulate both the seed and the fertilizer.

For any more gardening help or advice from professionals, call us at (407) 268-6222.

Much like seeds, each type of grass has its own type of sod for the growing process.  Some of the types grow better in certain climates than other ones, and therefore require different maintenance routines. Sod can be separated into two types: warm season and cool season.

Warm Season

Warm season grass, as the name suggests, thrives best during hot weather seasons and are ideal for areas in the south.

Bahia

This type grows best in Florida and the Southern Atlantic coastlines. It is extremely drought, bug, and disease resistant; therefore it is perfect for high-traffic areas. It is a very thick and coarse grass, needs to be cut every 5-7 days, but rarely needs to be watered.

Bermuda

It is very common in the south and requires full sun for proper growth. Bermuda grass is very drought-resistant, good for high-traffic areas, coarse, and must be cut at a height of 1-2 inches. During the winter, this grass turns brown and becomes quiescent, but when the weather warms up, the grass turns green again.

Zoysia

Zoysia is a slow-growing grass that grows wells in the southern and transitional zone. It requires full sun, and must be watered if there is a drought that lasts longer than one week.

Centipede

Centipede grows at a very slow rate but is a very low-maintenance grass. It can grow in full sun or partial sun, and thrives well in acidic soil levels. This type has very shallow roots, and therefore can be infected with bugs easily.

St. Augustine

One of the most popular types of grass in the south, it provides a thick and green lawn that does not handle cold weather very well at all. It is not for high-traffic areas, and grows the best in sunny and warm areas.

Cool Season

Cool season grasses are mostly grown in the northern areas that have a cooler climate year-round. When these grasses are exposed to extreme heat or drought, they become dormant and must be kept moist during whilst planting the sod.

Kentucky Bluegrass

It is most often mixed with other types of grass to ensure the best growth results. This type grows the best in loose soil and with shady conditions. One problem with Kentucky Bluegrass is that it sometimes needs to be treated with a fungicide due to it being prone to leafspot disease.

Perennial Ryegrass

It doesn’t need to be exposed to full sun to survive, and is also mixed with bluegrass or fescue grasses to make it look uniform because it grows in bunches. This type is often used to seed grasses in the south that go dormant during cold seasons.

Fine Fescue

There are three different types: creeping red, hard, and chewings. Fescues grow the absolute best in cool and shady climates, so high temperatures will require more water and maintenance.

Tall Fescue

This type of fescue is used mostly in mixes due to the fact that it grows in bunches instead of in a uniform pattern. It is low maintenance and handles high traffic very well, which is why it is the grass of choice on sports fields.

To inquire about the types of sod that we offer, call us at (407) 268-6222.

Apply an Herbicide

If only some of your lawn has suffered damage, you’ll need to kill the rest of the healthy grass in addition to any weeds. The easiest way to do this is to apply a strong herbicide while your grass is in its highest growth mode (which happens when you fertilize and water your lawn). One application will typically work. If the whole lawn is dead already, then you can skip this step entirely.

Remove the Dead Grass

The next thing to do is to pull up the dead grass. You can do this easily by using a sod cutter, which can be found at any hardware store.

Tilling

After you discard of the dead grass, then you will need to till the soil. This will allow for the new grass to grow strong, get rid of weeds, and to de-compact it. It’s also imperative to install or repair your sprinkler systems. By doing this now, watering your new sod will be a much faster process. For tips on installing sprinkler systems, click here. Also at this time, you should rake the land and get rid of any rock or debris and make sure that the soil is uneven. Sod will conform to any hiccup in the soil, so if you don’t get rid of debris, then the sod will not grow correctly.

Distribute Starter Seeds

The next step is to distribute the sod starter seeds, and then roll the soil so that the seeds are distributed evenly.

Lay Down the New Sod

As soon as the sod arrives, lay it down on the soil as if you were stacking bricks so that there are no gaps in between each piece of sod. You can cut the sod if you have to get around curved boundaries or walls. After you install the first 200 feet, you should lightly water the new sod. After all of the sod is put down, use your roller so that the soil and the new sod are in contact with the other one. Water thoroughly when this is complete.

Upkeep

The grass will start growing, and it will require you to mow your lawn after one week. Continue to water your new grass regularly.

If you would like an estimate of installing new sod in your lawn by a professional, call us at (407) 268-6222.

If any of these inspired designs have you thinking it’s time for a change contact us to see what works best.


Meditation Garden
This meditation garden is built around the pool and sitting areas as focal points. Lush greenery of both the garden plants as well as the sod accentuates the soft-red brick pavers. Stone textured columns and draping soften the area even more, making it a very comfortable and relaxing atmosphere to either entertain guests or sit and read a book.

With a little creative thinking, construction waste can easily be turned into interesting landscape accents for your yard. Leftover cement footers can be reused as house markers, planted and painted with your house numbers. Unused cinder blocks can be planted and used to line the edge of a landscape bed. Cement junction boxes that look like expensive modern planters are perfectly repurposed when planted for a patio corner or focal point. Concrete is an excellent planting material due to its long, low-maintenance lifespan and alkaline-friendly attributes.

Check out the video after the break:

Laying sod is a great way to maintain a green and healthy lawn:

For an instantly green lawn, a great alternative to seeding your lawn is laying sod. Sod is a living grass that has been grown on farms. Sod farmers sow different types of grasses or a combination of grasses in large fields to create hardy, weed-free lawns. They then harvest the sod by slicing an inch or so into the soil underneath the blanket of grass to separate the grass roots and soil from the soil underneath it. The grass plants, roots, and soil are all in one sheet that is sliced into long strips and rolled up. The carpet of soil and dense grass can be then rolled out to create an instant, permanent lawn. The sod must be carefully cut and fitted together to ensure an even carpet, but once laid, sod needs only thorough watering to encourage growth. Once the roots grow down into the existing soil, the lawn is established.

Installing sod has many advantages over growing grass from seed. Because it contains a layer of topsoil, sod can help prevent erosion. Though usually more expensive than grass seed, sod installation is an easy and quick process that instantly adds beauty and value to a property. Sod is an excellent choice for someone just buying a home or trying to beautify a home for a quick sale, as it creates an instant lush, green lawn. Sod is also superior to grass seeding because it can be laid any time of year. Sod grass can establish itself in the soil year round if the ground is not frozen, whereas grass seeds grow best in spring. Sod grass is also healthier than seed grass because it was professionally grown using the ideal soil and conditions for the grass. Sod also makes for a denser lawn, creating an even carpet of grass. Even with the best seed spreaders, a lawn grown from seed can have patches or spots. With sod, grass plants are sown close together to ensure an even carpet of green.

Healthy sod is available from garden centers, nurseries, or directly from sod farmers. Some sod farmers will even deliver to your property. Make sure to pick a sod that has a grass or combination’s of grasses that are suitable for your local climate. In hot weather areas like Orlando sod should be of native grasses. Make sure to ask which grass is in your sod. As well as climate, the health of your sod is vital to a beautiful lawn. There are several signs of healthy sod. First, look for dense grass that is longer than two inches. The sod grass should be a uniform green, and the soil around the grass roots should be moist. You should be able to see a tightly knit matrix of roots in the soil, which shouldn’t be thicker than one inch.

By following these guidelines, you can instantly beautify your property using sod installation on your lawn. Sod creates a permanent lawn that is lush, green, even, and weed free, without the hassle of seeding and waiting.

Strong winds can snap branches and even push over entire trees.  Snow and ice can weigh down branches causing extensive damage.  Though it may not look like much, ice can actually add thousands of extra pounds to tree branches and can even bend a tree entirely along the trunk.

There are many ways that storms can damage, and in some instances even kill, trees.  Though some damage can be utterly fatal, many damaged trees are able to survive storm damage and go on to live out the normal durations of their lives.  There are several distinct classifications of storm damage to trees.  Each type of damage has its own inherent long-term ramifications for the tree, and a concerned owner would do well to acquaint himself with each.

Trunk Damage

The most severe type of damage that can occur to a tree is injury to the trunk.  The older and larger the tree is, the more susceptible it becomes to trunk injury, such as splitting and breaking along the central trunk.  When splits and breaks occur along the main stem, the strength of the rest of the stem is diminished.  If bark has become separated from the trunk then there is a high risk of wood rot.  This is especially true if the bark damage is in excess of 50 square inches in area.
Decay is almost inevitable in instances where secondary stems are split from the central trunk.  As the rot advances, the stem strength will be further compromised.  Ultimately the hazard of damage to persons or property from collapse will make the tree a dangerous liability.

Bending

Bending is most common in saplings and smaller, young trees.  Bend damage can vary substantially.  The degree to which a tree can recover from bending depends on how much the trunk was bent and for how long.  Bend damage can cause the central trunk to “set” at an odd angle, resulting in bends and bows.  Saplings that have been bent can often be trained back into straightness with slow coaxing using stints and guide cables.

Breakage

Branch breakage is an extremely common type of tree damage.  Fortunately, it is seldom very detrimental to the tree (though the same cannot always be said for roofs, vehicles and other property that are under the tree when the break occurs).  Branch breakage is only ever fatal if it occurs over 75% of the crown of the tree or foliated area.  Over time some decay may set in at the points of breakage, but this is generally not a threat to the strength of the main or secondary stems and poses little threat to the tree itself.  The development of decay can be offset by trimming the damaged branch below the point of the break.

Weed Problems

Dealing with weeds is an issue that will confront every landscaper at some point.  Of course, if you have a lot of time, you can set about the task of manually pulling weeds, or using a spray pack to kill localized sections infested with weeds.  Mulch is also a extremely practical way of curbing weeds.  When used in conjunctions with landscaping fabrics, weeds can be easily beaten back to allow areas to be cultivated by desirable plants instead.

Pest Problems

Not all of the unwelcome residents of a landscape are of the floral variety.  Pest problems are a very real concern for landscapers.  Once a pest population takes hold it can be hard to get rid of.  Commercially manufactured poisons are the most commonly used means of pest control.  A backpack sprayer and some pesticide can be the simplest solution to pest problems.  Of course, not everyone wants to use dangerous chemicals where they relax and where their children play.  For those hoping to avoid the use of toxic chemicals, there are also number of organic and natural methods of pest control such as using pest resistant plants or neem oil.

Privacy Problems

Good fences really do make good neighbors.  However, privacy fences need not be constructed of wood or stone.  For privacy with a more natural feel, try privacy hedges or a screening trees that grow low and have a wide spread.  Natural privacy screening may take a bit longer to cultivate than it would take to put up a 6 foot wooden privacy fence, but they afford a much more organic look and feel.

Scheduling Problems

Many people set about their landscaping projects with the best intentions.  However, a hectic schedule can soon leave an individual scrambling to find ways to keep up with their investment.  Without enough time to care for and maintain the landscape, the money invested into it is wasted.  Those who want to reap the benefits of landscaping without having to invest the time and energy into upkeep would do well to explore other options, such as hardscaping.

Hardscapes don’t need water, don’t have light restrictions and never need trimming.  Granted, most hardscape features require significantly more time and money to install, but once they are installed they require no investment of time into maintenance.   Hardscapes are simply any non-living aspects of the property.  Hardscaping encompasses everything from gazebos to decks to masonry and fountains.  These aspects all add value and beauty to the home without the need for constant care.  This makes hardscaping ideal for the busy homeowner who wants to improve the value and atmosphere of his property but is has other constraints on his time.

Erosion Problems

Soil erosion can be a significant problem on sloping land.  The most practical means of curbing erosion is through terracing and building retaining walls.  Retaining walls can be constructed from rockwork or by using railroad ties partially buried and spiked into the ground.

Drainage Problems

Drainage Problems are also a common source of distress for homeowners.  Water can easily pool in low lying or flat areas.  This is especially common in areas with very hydric soil (earth that retains water rather than allowing it to drain).  If the areas of pooling are well away from any structures or other objects that might be subject to water damage, you might consider simply using wetland plants in those areas.  If the location of the standing water is, itself, a problem, then a better option is to dig a swale (a shallow trough) to establish a channel for the water to drain into a more desirable location or even out into the street.

Drought Problems

On the other end of the scale are areas that get little rainfall, or that have soil that doesn’t hold water well.  In these areas, xeriphytic plants are usually the way to go.  Xeriphytes are plants that need very little water and do well in dry areas.  If there are only a few areas of the property that consistently dry out, rock gardening can be a viable solution, as well.  Rock gardens can be designed to look either natural or artistic and can be used in conjunction with xeriphytic plants.

Rocky Terrain Problems

Rocky terrain provides many of the same issues as dry areas, with the added obstacle of being unable to dig into the earth for easy planting.  Rock gardening works well and looks natural in such settings.  Soil can be imported into sections of the rock garden to add xeriphytic plants to add color and life to the rock garden.

Shade Problems

Highly wooded areas and areas blocked from the sun by structures can receive too little sunlight to support the majority of plants.  However, there are a number of plants that thrive in shade.  These should be used in any areas that present the problem of too much shade.  Such areas can also be utilized and augmented with hardscaping.  While you may have difficulty getting your plants to grow in the shade, a nice shady spot makes the ideal setting for benches, gazebos and other features.  A little creativity can go a long way in addressing shade problems.